A Southern Story: Exploring Tanzania’s Wild Side

Under the radar, Southern Tanzania offers vast and remote landscapes which can be explored in a variety of ways, from traditional 4×4 safaris to walking and boating. Intimate, low-impact camps provide an immersive experience with very few other visitors to spoil the feeling of exclusivity. To put that into context, Ruaha receives around 20,000 visitors a year compared to the Serengeti’s 350,000 visitors a year! For those who have the patience, resolve (and budget) to head south, it’s an incredibly rewarding safari experience.

Combining Ruaha National Park and Nyerere National Park (formerly Selous Game Reserve) showcases the diversity of Tanzania’s ecosystems, from baobab-studded plains to riverine deltas – all without the crowds. For bush and beach, you can easily extend with a few days on the beaches of Zanzibar or Mafia Island.

Ruaha National Park: Big Skies, Baobabs & Elephants

Covering nearly 20,000 square kilometres, Ruaha is rugged and remote. With only a handful of camps, a stay here feels genuinely exclusive.

You get a sense of the park’s vastness as your light aircraft descends over the Great Ruaha River, the park’s central artery.

Ruaha’s red earth, ancient baobabs and towering euphorbia candelabras give it a distinctive identity. Wildlife is abundant, though it is spread across a vast area. Birding is exceptional, with over 475 recorded species, including migratory visitors from as far away as the Congo Basin.

This isn’t a destination for instant gratification, but rather one that rewards patience, the skill of your guide, and a true love of the landscape. I think this is why Ruaha tends to appeal to seasoned safari-goers rather than first-timers.

Watching the family dynamics of elephants is a highlight. Ruaha supports one of Africa’s largest populations. In the dry season look out for the elephants digging into the dry riverbeds with their tusks and trunk, unearthing water sources known only to them, a process that benefits many other animals.

In such an epic landscape, predators can be elusive – but they are here in serious numbers. We were blessed with a leopard sighting but not until the very last morning, as we returned to the airstrip. For lions, we drove a long way to reach a pride sheltering among the boulders. We didn’t see wild dogs or cheetah this time, though they are known to frequent the area.

I stayed at Kigelia Ruaha, the only true tented camp in Ruaha, sat beneath shady sausage trees along a dry riverbed. Its understated style puts the landscape front and centre, while providing everything you need. Nights were filled with the sounds of the bush. Elephant would stand behind the tent, rumbling quietly, and hyena brazenly trashed the bar once everyone had dispersed after dinner, breaking glasses and leaving their tracks for us to find at dawn.

Days are long and full – we were departing at sunrise and not returning until midday, stopping for a picnic out in the bush around 9–9:30am. Breakfast would be laid out on the bonnet of the vehicle beneath the shade of a tree. This flexible approach allows guides to adapt to conditions and cover ground—crucial in a park of this scale. Afternoon drives were shorter in duration with us returning to camp as the dark descended. On one evening we also had a night drive with an armed park ranger – a chance to see genet and bush babies.

Nyerere National Park: Safari on the Rufiji River

Nyerere National Park from the air — Nyerere National Park

Nyerere National Park was carved out of the larger Selous Game Reserve in 2019. Selous is more than 50,000 square kilometres in total, comprised largely of hunting blocks, while in the northern reaches, Nyerere covers around 30,000 square kilometres, making it the largest protected area in Africa. Nyerere is dedicated to ecotourism.

The Rufiji River Delta defines this lush, tropical park, forming a network of oxbow lakes, channels, and palm-fringed floodplains that feel very different from Ruaha’s drier, dustier terrain. It can feel quite humid here in keeping with the tropical vibes.

The scenery has a softer quality overall, with water everywhere and bird calls echoing from the riverbanks and trees. Wildlife is plentiful: hippos, crocodiles, elephants, lions, and leopards are all present, along with impressive herds of eland, buffalo, sable, kudu and waterbuck.

I stayed at Sand Rivers, an extraordinary lodge just a short drive from Kiba Airstrip, perched high above a wide bend in the river. From our open-fronted chalet, we could look straight out over the water. Wake up call often consisted of a noisy hippo sliding down the bank and plopping into the river beneath our chalet after a night on land grazing. The chalets have lovely open bathrooms with a powerful waterfall/drench-style shower.

Just watch out for the monkeys – leave anything hanging around and they’ll have it! There is a reason the tea chest is locked and there is a special box for your washbag.

One of Nyerere’s great strengths is the range of safari activities on offer:

Boat safaris along the Rufiji
Guided walking safaris
Fly-camping
Traditional game drives in open 4x4s

The result is a highly immersive and flexible safari. You’re not limited to vehicle-based sightings, and this variety makes for a stay with real depth.

Flying to Southern Tanzania: Travel Logistics and Airstrip Tips

While Kilimanjaro is the gateway to Northern Tanzania (Manyara, Tarangire, Ngorongoro, Serengeti), Dar es Salaam is the gateway to the south.

Dar es Salaam to Msembe (Ruaha): approx. 2.5 hours with stops
Ruaha to Selous (Kiba Airstrip): approx. 2.5 hours with stops
Selous to Dar: approx. 1 hour 45 minutes with stops
Zanzibar to Dar: just 20 minutes direct, making a beach extension easy and seamless

Weather, wildlife, and bush strip conditions all contribute to journey time, but that’s part of the charm of travelling in remote areas. Embrace it.

Conservation and Context: Why These Parks Matter

Both parks are part of wider conservation landscapes. Ruaha remains a priority for elephant conservation, with vital anti-poaching and research projects underway. In Nyerere, concerns surround the development of the Stiegler’s Gorge hydropower project, which is likely to impact water levels, wildlife patterns, and light pollution in an otherwise pristine region. On my most recent visit in November 2022, early signs of construction were already visible.

Tourism plays a crucial role here. Your visit supports jobs, anti-poaching work, and sustainable alternatives to extractive land use.

Where to Stay: Lodge Recommendations in Southern Tanzania

Ruaha National Park

Kigelia Ruaha – A classic tented camp under sausage trees, perfect for purists seeking a simple, authentic bush experience.
Kichaka Expeditions – A remote walking-focused camp offering immersive safaris and serious guiding for the adventurous.
Jongomero – A luxury lodge located far from the main circuit with river frontage and elegant thatch-and-stone suites.
Ikuka Safari Camp – Perched on a rift escarpment with sweeping views and beautifully appointed chalets.
Jabali Ridge – Stylish and contemporary with elevated decks and an infinity pool overlooking the baobab valley.
Mdonya Old River Camp – A no-frills, affordable option that retains a strong connection to the wilderness.
Mwagusi Safari Camp – Owner-run, with incredible guiding and characterful bandas set by the riverbed.

Nyerere National Park

Sand Rivers Selous – An elegant riverside lodge with open-fronted chalets, boat safaris, and fine food.
Selous Impala Camp – A well-established riverside camp known for its hospitality and classic tented style. It’s 4 nights for 3 offer is very good value.
Roho ya Selous – A smart, modern camp set in a productive wildlife area, offering high-quality guiding.
Laba Siwandu (formerly Siwandu Camp) – A spacious, well-appointed tented camp on the lake with excellent game viewing and boating.