The Serengeti in Tanzania is a place of transition—a vast, open landscape where life moves to ancient rhythms, dictated by rainfall and instinct. In February, the short grass of the southern plains around Lake Ndutu becomes a grand stage for one of nature’s great spectacles: wildebeest calving. The vast majority of calves- thousands each day- are born within a three-week window between late January and February, depending on rainfall and the condition of the grass.
It’s here, beneath spreading acacia trees at 1,630 metres elevation, that I spent two nights at Serengeti South Camp #2, part of the excellent Nomad Tanzania portfolio.
Getting There: A Scenic Southern Route
We opted to drive from the Ngorongoro Crater, where we’d spent a couple of nights, taking the southern route across Maasai land to reach Ndutu. This proved a rewarding choice, offering not only a stronger sense of place and continuity, but also superb scenery along the way. We reached the edge of the plains in just a couple of hours—arguably quicker than flying from Manyara, and far more immersive.
Steadily weleft the Maasai farms behind, with their large herds of livestock and children waving from the roadside, passing a ragged line of oil-soaked rags tied to fence posts – a line that apparently stretches for 45km. This pop-up fence is intended to deter wildebeest from coming any further, and spreading cattle fever to the Maasai herds.
The black cotton soil looked rich, the trees began to thin out, and then, in the distance, dark snaking lines appeared on the horizon—at first like a swarm of flies, then clearly wildebeest. We had reached the edge of the migration.
This approach was, in fact, our best view of the migration herds. Carcasses, totally untouched by scavengers, lay where animals had fallen—we even saw some domesticated dogs feeding on a zebra carcass. This was evidence of just how abundant food is for predators and scavengers at this time of year.
I had anticipated seeing more wildebeest in the following few days in the Serengeti, but as it happened, the herds were not gathered near camp, so we only saw them at the edge of the NCA – many with new-born calves.
Camp Style & Setup: Nights Under Canvas
Serengeti South Camp #2 is the kind of mobile setup that gets everything right. Designed to keep pace with the migration, the camp is unfenced, seasonal, and entirely under canvas—authentic, elegant, and with minimal environmental impact.
I stayed in Tent 5, one of six spacious Meru-style walk-in tents. The tent is dominated by a big comfortable bed dressed in crisp linen, while the ensuite has a flush loo behind a curtain, and hot bucket showers on demand. The wash basin had flasks of hot and cold water – these were replenished for us. The camp is cleverly laid out to offer privacy and maximise views.
I also viewed the family tent next door —a fantastic two-bedroom, two-bathroom setup ideal for parents travelling with older children or for a small group.
Mess Tent
The mess tent was one of the best I’ve seen—perfectly positioned under acacia trees, with two wings. To the right, an open-air lounge with comfy seating, reference books and a charging station; to the left, the dining area. Taking centre stage: the bar, complete with the ever-smiling Saitoti, always ready to mix your favourite tipple. In the evenings, lanterns lit the way to the campfire, where guests gathered for drinks, ‘bitings’, and relaxed fireside chats about the day.
Camp management was under the steady eye of Olais, though our interaction was minimal—a sign, perhaps, that everything was running smoothly behind the scenes. The camp atmosphere felt natural and unforced.
Dining: Remote and Remarkably Good
Considering the camp’s remote setting and the fact that meals are prepared in a kitchen tent (while fending off a mango-raiding elephant at one point), the food was outstanding—possibly the best we had during our entire trip. Freshly made, beautifully presented, and plentiful.
Breakfasts
These were typically taken picnic-style —something I always look forward to on safari. A generous selection: granola, fruit, yoghurt, a roll or wrap with bacon and/or egg, or a muffin or mini quiche, and flasks of tea, coffee, and juice. On departure day, we had breakfast in the mess tent—again, relaxed and plentiful, with a choice of hot dishes.
Lunch and supper
Both lunch and supper were served buffet-style back at camp. Guests were invited to return for seconds (and thirds), and to help themselves to the bar if they like. We enjoyed steak with Hasselback potatoes, salsa verde, and a cheesy beetroot gratin one night; roast chicken with polenta and broccoli on the next. The aubergine with garlic and herbs at lunch was memorable—as was the chef’s naughty chocolate lava cake.
In the late afternoon, tea and a freshly baked cake were always waiting before we headed out again. The banana bread was especially good. All the guides would gather eagerly for banana bread! You’re not going to lose weight on a safari like this!
Wildlife & Wilderness: What Did We See?
Giraffes wandered through the trees around camp, and every night—like clockwork—the lions roared, drowning out the cicadas and making you very grateful for the torch light of the askari, guiding you back to your tent.
Game drives from camp offered real variety: lakeside circuits around Masek and Ndutu, a productive vachellia woodland loop teeming with lions, vehicles, and birdlife, and drives further afield to the southern plains. The plains were vast, with swallows scything through the air and the occasional white marker post denoting the boundary between the Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA).
On the plains:
We saw large zebra herds, and enjoyed breakfast surrounded by them. We had a special sighting of three lionesses all to ourselves, and hyena, but saw no wildebeest in the plains during our full day—proof that their movements can never be guaranteed.
We also encountered a cheetah with cubs, but counted 17 vehicles at the sighting, gently but steadily pursuing the family. This was distressing to see. Our guide Rem talked to us about the pressures guides face from guests to “deliver” sightings—and the toll this takes on wildlife. This led into a wider discussion about the ethics of responsible wildlife tourism. We decided not to stay with the cheetah and cub, but to move on.
For anyone used to private conservancies with strict vehicle limits, this can be jarring. But this is the reality of wildlife viewing in a national park. As visitors, we can be part of the solution—by being patient, staying back, and embracing the full safari experience, not just ticking off sightings.
In the woodland:
We watched beautful steel-blue whydahs dancing on the breeze, giraffe with calves, and Fischer’s lovebirds bustling in treetop colonies.
Lions were often surrounded by vehicles. Fortunately, Rem employed a more thoughtful approach, returning later in the day when most had moved on or started the journey back to their camps before nightfall. This paid off: we spent an hour at sundown with drinks, nibbles and a large male lion, who fell off the riverbank when he rolled over! We saw a female lounging in a tree, and spent a long time watching a mother (who was collared) groom her subadults cubs who then went off for some rough and tumble in the grass—all without big crowds. We could do this because of the location of our camp, which was very nearby, and the knowledge and experience of our guide.
At the lake shore:
Away from the action, we saw marabou storks and crocodile picking apart drowned wildebeest on the lake’s edge, many too full to feed.
Ndutu vs Kusini: Comparing Camp Locations
While Serengeti South Camp #2 is located south of Lake Ndutu, Nomad also operates a second seasonal camp—Camp #1—at Kusini. It sounds like there may be a permanent lodge in the pipeline at Kusini too.
My impression is that Kusini may offer a quieter, less pressured experience, particularly during peak migration months. While Ndutu is close to the calving action, vehicle density here is high. For some, this may detract from the experience.
Final Thoughts
Ultimately, a safari is a significant investment, and the quality of your experience hinges on more than where you choose to stay. Don’t underestimate the value of a great guide — they can truly make or break a trip. Personally, I’d much rather stay in an authentic tented camp and forgo luxury extras as long as I’m in the hands of a knowledgeable, experienced guide.
Serengeti South Camp #2 offers a beautifully executed, high-quality mobile safari that remains true to the traditional spirit of tented travel. Stylish yet unfussy, immersive but comfortable, it’s an ideal base for the southern plains during the calving season.
That said, travellers should be aware of the growing traffic pressures in Ndutu. A couple of nights here—immersed in the migration’s heart—contrast beautifully with quieter regions further afield, such as the off-season northern Serengeti or the Kusini plains.
As part of a longer northern circuit, Serengeti South is a compelling stop—especially when approached by road from the Crater. It’s a reminder that the journey matters as much as the destination.
With thanks to Nomad Tanzania for hosting us.
